The day started good. We got out of Caceres on time and with a nice Spanish breakfast.
Our first stop was Casar de Caceres. We found a bar on the main drag and stopped for cafes con leche. I needed something more substantive so I asked the bartender for a plate of ham and cheese. Well, it took awhile for the food. I was getting impatient but I held my tongue and I am glad that I did. I told myself that in Spain, eating is an occasion. The bartender didn't just grab some stuff from the refrigerator. He prepared an elegant looking sampler of Spanish ham ( the premier ham ), sliced cheese portions and fresh bread. Had I been the ugly American, it would have been unfortunate.
By now we had been hiking about 2.5 hours so Beverly and I hit the road as we still had over 12 miles to go. Something about the afternoon turned into a slog. Our goal was an albergue along a reservoir by 3:30. We weren't even close.
The sun was out all day in full force. The Via was rerouted due to construction, adding perhaps an additional mile. On the last third, I picked up a blister. Then I had a fall and small gashed my right elbow. I field dressed it and pressed on in the never ending sun. Running low on water, I was hoarding what little I had. I still had miles to go.
With less than a mile, I saw Beverly walking back to me without her backpack. This could not be good. Beverly approached and said, "This is a test of your patience and serenity. " With a smile. The albergue was closed and the next one was 6 miles down the road. We were both exhausted and beat down.
We figured out a plan, called an albergue in the next town and arranged a pickup. By 6 pm, very late for our plans we finally could begin to settle down.
My cold, mixed salad never tasted so good, as did those 2 beers and 2 Cokes in Canaveral.
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